Posts Tagged ‘Cateye’

Winter Draws On – but keep on riding …

Monday, November 10th, 2014

As the last leaves are falling off the trees thoughts turn to the winter. Yes, it’s possible to cycle through the winter, but you need to be prepared …

Prepare Your Bike : Riding cold salty pot-holed roads takes a huge toll on your bike. Salt etches away at frames, paint jobs and metal finishes, and grit and grime gets into bearings and friction surfaces accelerating wear and shifting mechanics out of adjustment. So if you have the choice don’t use your pride and joy.

Rather, pick a bike you can adapt without worrying ruining its expensive good looks. More than ever, ensure your choice is well-maintained and tuned up.

Nothing is as miserable as a preventable mechanical holding you up just as the street lights turn on and the sleet moves in. And of course, carry a small tool- and flat kit just in case.

The ultimate in winter tires, but won't fit all frames ...

The ultimate in winter tires, but won’t fit all frames …

Tires : In the winter flints, glass and rough roads subject tires to the limit. If you’re riding regularly throughout the season consider running heavier duty and wider tires on your road bike. Most road bikes will take 25mm wide tires and many will run 28mm wide tires.

Consider something like Continental 4-Seasons if you’re looking for toughness and performance. Continental GatorSkins provide great flat protection at a lower price and if you’re looking for the ultimate in winter protection look at the Schwalbe Marathons. If you’re regularly riding on ice and snow look at getting studded tires for greater control and security.

Fenders keep water off your back and muck off your bike - these are clip-on fenders

Fenders keep water off your back and muck off your bike – these are clip-on fenders

Fenders : Nothing says winter riding like the black streak up your back which accumulates after almost any ride. Fenders or mudguards not only protect you from the spray which splatters up your bike, but also helps protect the rest of the bike from excessive exposure to the elements and dirt.

Some bikes have fittings for fenders, but it’s possible to fit fenders to almost any regular road bike or hybrid.

Clip-on types are also available if you want the option of removing the fenders on fine weather days.

Stay Warm : Of course, you need to stay warm. As well as wearing winter-specific jackets and tights look after your extremities. Winter cycling shoes are, of course, ideal, but start with Merino wool socks. Wool can carry its own weight in water before it even feels damp and provides better insulation than most synthetics.

Insulated and water-proof shoe covers will help keep most feet warm. Use toe-covers if you’re looking for something you can stick in your back pocket as the day, hopefully, warms up.

Also, check your shoes for cooling vents. Some have the ability to be shut. Otherwise seal them up with some duct-tape or similar.

Lastly, resist the temptation to make your feet too snug. Leave enough room for circulation to help keep your feet warm.

Hands, of course, also need protection from the cold and wet. Choose a full finger, insulated glove, preferably with a high-tech synthetic barrier such as WindStopper or similar. Some people find their hands fare better in a mitten or lobster-claw variation. I find silk glove liners really help.

Heads are usually covered by a helmet, but features which make for a great summer helmet, like cooling vents, may prove too chilly for the winter. Look for a thin cap made from WindStopper or other synthetic which will help prevent heat loss through the top of your head and cover your ears. You might want to consider a face-mask or balaclava in really nasty conditions.

Get Lit Up : Never has effective bike lighting been so good and so available. Virtually all lights now use very bright and efficient LEDs, and many are re-chargeable. Re-chargeable lights cost more, but most are capable of, at least, 600 charging cycles. When looking at a regular battery light remember to factor in the cost of 600 sets of DuraCells into the true cost. A bright rear light is absolutely essential with most having a selection of steady and pulsing modes. Rear lights output from about 10 lumens of red light up to about 50 lumens.

Front lights fall into two types; conspicuity lights and headlights. Conspicuity lights feature a very bright, wide field beam which only minimally lights up the road, but ensures you will be seen – about 50 lumens to 100 lumens.

Headlight focussed beam lights tend to be more expensive, but really light up the road or trail, depending on their power – from about 300 lumens to 2500 lumens. Around 700-1000 lumens will be plenty for most road riders and commuters. The more powerful lights are for off-road use, although the extra power can be useful on the road too.


Visit Halter’s for :
Clothing by : Gore, Pearl Izumi, Castelli and other fine makes
Lights by : Blackburn, Cateye, Light & Motion and Knog
And, of course, we’ll tune-up and prepare your bike too …


If you’re seeking information on other topics click on any item in Halter’s Tag Cloud in the right hand column of this blog …


Alan That British Bloke


Today It’s Mostly Front Lights …

Thursday, October 3rd, 2013

Time was when bicycle lights would cost you $2.00+ per lumen. Modern LED lights will more likely cost you 20¢/lumen.

The Cateye Volt300 - $59.99

The Cateye Volt300 – $59.99

Today’s bike light is now very bright and effective for its size and will most likely have the advantage of being rechargeable and switching to several lighting modes.

The package includes a helmet mount

The package includes a helmet mount

We’ve just taken delivery of the latest Cateye Volt300 front light with a claimed output of 300lumen for 3 hours on full beam and up to 11 hours on Hyper-Constant.

Hyper-Constant Technology is a true first among the cycling industry. LEDs maintain a solid beam while simultaneously flashing, allowing cyclists to “See And Be Seen”.

Kit includes helmet mount, handlebar mount and charging cable

Kit includes helmet mount, handlebar mount and charging cable

The light can recharge on any USB port or USB phone charger and the battery is easily removable with spare batteries and an optional charging cradle also available for long trips and commutes.

We have a range of Cateye rechargeable and regular battery lights as well as high-end units by Light & Motion and Knog. We also stock effective budget lights by Blackburn and Giant.


If you’re seeking information on other topics click on any item in Halter’s Tag Cloud in the right hand column of this blog …


Alan That British Bloke | OldCranksCC Forum


Biketronics

Friday, March 15th, 2013
A bicycle computer provides information such as speed and distance cycled.

A bicycle computer provides information such as speed and distance cycled.

One of the first accessories purchasers of new bike make is that of a bike computer. Everyone wants to know how fast they’re going and how far they’ve ridden.

A bike computer will provide information such as speed, average speed, top speed, trip distance, odometer and time of day.

It works by using a magnetic sensor, usually situated by the front wheel, and a head unit which fits on the stem or handlebars.

A basic computer is connected to the sensor with a wire. If you’re installing a wired computer you need to figure out a route for the wire from the sensor to the head unit. Expect to pay around $20-$30.

In use the wires have a tendency to catch and break, especially when the bike is being loaded into or onto a car. Replacement wire harnesses may cost nearly as much as the computer did in the first place.

A wireless computer uses digital radio technology to communicate from the sensor to the computer. This looks neat and eliminates the problem of cable routing and broken wires. A basic wireless computer costs around $60-$70.

You can expect a couple of years battery life for computers and wireless sensors.

This triple wireless computer senses heart rate and pedaling cadence

This triple wireless computer senses heart rate and pedaling cadence

If you require more information such as cadence – the rate at which you are spinning the pedals – or heart-rate a double or triple wireless bike computer will provide such information.

Cadence is detected from a sensor situated on the chain-stay while heart-rate requires wearing a monitor belt across the chest.

If you require this much information then expect to pay around $150. This is the least expensive way of collecting such data.

GPS detects your position and speed

GPS detects your position and speed

The big development in the past few years has been in devices which use the Global Positioning System to determine your speed and position.

As well as making a record of your ride on the road or on the trail, more sophisticated devices can keep track of your heart-rate, cadence and power output when associated with the appropriate sensors.

You can also plan a route which can be uploaded to the GPS unit which, according to how sophisticated it is, can show a cue sheet and/or route map with directions for planned rides.

Garmin Edge 800/810 - displays maps and cue-sheet information

Garmin Edge 800/810 – displays maps and cue-sheet information

A basic GPS unit will gather speed and route information from a ride which can then be uploaded to a website which will then be able to display your route, altitude profile and other data on screen.

More expensive units will also have ANT+, a means whereby the head unit can communicate with other ANT+ enabled sensors such as heart-rate monitors, cadence sensors and power-meters. This data can also be displayed and analysed on computer to provide a comprehensive picture of your ride.

The most advanced devices are capable of displaying detailed maps and providing detailed cue-sheets and directions as well as features such as “return to start”, finding addresses and coffee stops, etc.

The Wahoo RFKLT uses your phone's computing capacity and displays data  on your handlebars

The Wahoo RFKLT uses your phone’s computing capacity and displays data on your handlebars

Most GPS units have programmable screens which can present exactly the information you require. Some have touch screens.

Other refinements include real-time links to social media and performance cycling websites so you can post live reports of where you are and compare your times to others who have previously ridden your section of the route.

Many of these advanced functions can be done by using an appropriate app on your GPS-enabled smart-phone. However, running apps of this type makes a heavy draw on the phone’s battery capacity and limits their use to no more than a couple of hours. Dedicated GPS units will run over 12 hours in most cases.

However, new devices which use the processing capacity of your phone, but display data on a secondary screen on your handlebars while your phone is tucked away safely in your pocket or bike-bag, will be available shortly. This will radically extend the battery duration of your phone.

GPS computers run from under $150 to about $600. Detailed or specialist maps are extra. ANT+ accessories such as heart-rate or cadence sensors are around $60 each. ANT+ power-meters around $1500.

So, whether you’re a casual rider just intent on a gentle saunter or in training for the next big event, a bicycle computer can provide everything from the basic “how far and how fast” to analysis of power output and performance and nice maps of your favorite routes.


Halter’s stocks bicycle computers by Cateye, including the triple wireless heart-rate/cadence CC-RD430DW and, soon to be available, Strada Micro.

We carry the full range of Garmin Edge GPS enabled computers, sensors and accessories. Cateye Stealth GPS computers are on their way and we await news of when the Wahoo phone accessories will become generally available.

If you’re seeking information on other topics click on any item in Halter’s Tag Cloud in the right hand column of this blog …


Alan That British Bloke


 
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